Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2004 to 2015
Tasted in 2016 and published originally in the Burgundy Briefing 2015 Vintage Report. My tasting notes are followed by Frédéric’s comments.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2015
Ripe mulberries and white pepper aroma. Ripe fruit on the attack. This is juicy and quite dense and the tannins are firm, plentiful and juicy…there are aromas on the finish. It is lively too. The energy is there and a delicious succulence. Score 18.65-75
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2014
Red fruits and plenty of them. Juicy jump onto the palate. This is really rather exuberant. Delish. it is fresh and tasting very well indeed. Soft, smooth tannins. Bite on the finish. Just yummy now. Of course it will age, but it is at a moment of lovely accessibility. Score 18.5
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2013
Elegant aroma of red fruits. Appealing fresh, red fruits and cool acidity in the middle. You sense the coolness. The tannins are firm, while not the finest, they nicely supportive, rather supple and flow well in the palate with the fruit. It is zesty, cool acidity and energetic on the finish. Vivacious. From 2023 18.10
“It is not the most elegant of the vintages. There is some rusticity in the vintage. I was not expecting the quality of this vintage and the texture of the tannins and this wraps the acidity. You do not see the acidity. It should develop and age very well.”
**Nuits-Saint-Georges, clos de la Maréchale 2012
Rich aroma of deep red and black fruits. This smells much riper on the nose and has morello cherry fruits on the palate. Excellent depth and thicker, ripe tannins. It is quite opulent in the texture, but dense, deep and very compact. Lovely rich fruit with a fresh succulence on the finish.. with the freshness inside the fruit. There is a generosity. It has power on the finish. Score 18.55
“It is quite tight at the moment. I did not think this would close down. This was the wine I advised my customers would stay open.”
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2011
Notes of ripe cranberry on the nose. Supple and silky onto the palate. Glides easily and gently. It is sweet, silky and rippling and has a refreshing lift at the end. Very nicely balanced and very harmonious. It is soft, but that at the end brings it together. Score 18.
***Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2010
Bright, ripe and expressive fruit on the nose. It has a gorgeous satin texture and ripples very elegantly and freshly. The sweet fruit encases the fresh acidity. The tannins a svelte. It has great intensity and persistence on the finish..and it show a salty character at the end of the palate. For me this has the perfect balance. Brilliant. Score 18.75
“It is so fresh and so exciting,” remarks Frédéric.
It seems that Frédéric would actually like to drink this now – as well as later and comments “the good thing in the Clos La Maréchale is is that the bottles are not rare. They are readily available. You could drink a bottle like this today and then drink another bottle with age.”
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2009
Rich, dense and full. A ripe wine. It shows the warm summer. It is quite extravagant. The tannins at the moment are from and grippy. This needs time to smooth and resolve. After the large palate it has enough freshness at the end, but this is not a vintage through which it is easy to see the terroir. The vintage speaks first. I think it has great ageing potential – 20 years plus, but it is not my favourite in the flight for all its heady power.. Score 18.50. To put away for a long time..
“It is very resistant to oxidation so it will keep for ever and you should leave it. Age will bring a complexity. It is powerful and rich and ripe. Yes the problem is that 2009 is not a wine for the collectors. The character of the vineyard is not expressed clearly. Not necessarily the most Burgundian, Burgundy. It seems this year that Burgundy just slipped to the south,” muses Frédéric.
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2008
This is has a cool aroma showing just a hint of evolution with the fruit. There are some late summer hedgerow notes. A surprisingly fluid and very elegant palate. The tannins are silly. The wine is fresh and energetic. A lively long and fresh finish. This has a tension and minerality at the end. Transparency to the terroir. A delightful 2008. Score 18.4.
“It does not have a rich body, but it is all spirit. It is inspiring wine. I have change my image of it now. It has put on a little weight and shows some darker flavours and it is more NSG than we thought. I always found in it the image of ‘light’ ..a luminosity..full of light. This vintage is a Cistercian wine. There is something minimalist here. It is the essence of the wine. Just the spirit, says Frédéric.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2007
This has alluring aromatics. Soft and elegant and juicy. It is easy onto the palate. A little plump in the middle. And then the tannins come in and are more robust than expected. I prefer the tannins and silky texture of the 2008. This is not as fine in texture. But none-the-less it has a somewhat gusty charm and an aromatic sweetness at the end. Score 17.9
“The tannins are more rustic. I like this though I am a farmer. This is my world,” says Frédéric. “The 2007 is more physical..the 2008 more cerebral.”
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2006
Showing some evolution, notes of dark chocolate, forest floor..becoming interesting. Still quite tight on the strike though. Full-bodied, chunky and broad. It’s a bigger boned wine; robustly structured. It not elegant. The tannins are quite burly, but I do like the fact it is fresh and has a bite..mineral bite at the end..some what bitter. It would be great with a meal. Score 17.65
Frédéric comments “In a fully mature you expect the edges to be integrated, but not in a ‘relatively young wine and this is still too young.”.
He recalls, “I was worried to begin with the tannins as they were so strong and dry and green and then the wine become fruity and friendly a the end of the ageing in barrel. And now after a few years in bottle they have come back. I like it when a wine is not perfectly polished. This is still a young wine. It has character and I anticipate the sharpness will resolve with more age. The flavours are interesting… no longer primary fruit.”
“Yes it would be good with food now. With food you need something bitter, or acidity or tannins if the wine is too sweet it is not so good with a meal.”
*Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2005
This is also showing a touch of evolution the nose, not a much as 2006, but dark fruits couple with more secondary characters. What strikes you is the sublime texture, satin soft now, rich, but fine. It has a wonderful depth, intensity and sophistication. It glides. Such energy and complexity. This has tension and coiled vigour. the energy is still unfurled. It has that splendid thing…a vibration on the finish.. Score 18.9. I would wait another few years – maybe five or so for it to develop more nuances, but it will continue to age for a very long time.
“It is very aristocratic. Very well behaved. Everything is integrated. Everything is in place and it will evolve now for a long time…it will become great. It is not exuberant. This needs much more time to fully appreciate it,” says Frédéric.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale 2004
This while this has the mark of the vintage in the aroma and flavour..a green note, the tannin are integrating. As it opens the texture reveals itself and it softer and smoother. It is fresh. It has energy. There is a flavour of the vintage, but it does have an elegance. I like the cold finish. Score 17.4
“I love this wine. I am very proud of this wine. It is easy to make a great wine in those few great years. It is much more difficult to make good wines every year,” says Frédéric.
“It was a very challenging vintage in the vineyard. Everything was new. I had a new team and a new fermenting room. It was rainy and the vigour of the wines was high. We had so much work in 2004 and we managed to get good looking grapes, ripe and healthy and so I was proud of my grapes. I love this wine. Ok there is some greenness there, but the texture is good and the wine is not thin. It is round and deep enough and has some good fruit and some greenness, which I understand some people do not like I sell this wine to a restaurant in Paris who loves it. the chef cooks only vegetable and this is a good wine to match with this sot of food. With some vegetable dishes which will not match with anything else, this wine is the answer.