Domaine René Bouvier  

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps

I tasted with Bernard Bouvier, third generation of this family who established themselves initially in Marsannay. Bernard moved to Gevrey in 1971 and then to the outskirts of the village behind the supermarket with a modern, very practical facility. Bernard is president of the Marsannay growers and at the forefront of the movement to upgrade the outstanding village sites within the appellation, but he also has substantial parcels in Gevrey and a good piece of village Chambolle.

You will not find Racine de Temps on an appellation map of Gevrey. It is a name Bernard has coined for his old vines – Roots of Time. It is made up of two parcels. The largest lies under Jeunes Rois, is called Le Créot which he bought purchased in 2001. The balance comes from the lieut-dit below.

Gevrey has an unusually large village appellation given the the alluvial fan which spreads further than in most other villages. This accounts for the quality of a large part of the low lying lieut dit ‘Justice’. This well drained soil has plentiful small stones and makes a lighter and more elegant style of village wine, of which Bernard has a good example. However there is a wide diversity of terroir and therefore style of Gevrey village wines. Some of the best sites are on the upper side of the village, on the Brochon side.

We went for a drive to take a look. Le Créot lies in the village of Brochon, but in the appellation of Gevrey-Chambertin. (The village/appellations boundaries do not always align, for example you can find a similar mismatch between Volnay and Pommard).  

“This is where Gevrey is at its most concentrated and dense,” says Bernard. “It is very different from the parcels on the south side of the village near to Morey.” Bernard has three parcels here – Jeune Rois is made separately.

A part of the parcel was planted in 1922. There has been ‘spot’ replanting since. “The soil is 70cm deep, a mix of clay and limestone and the roots go very deep into the limestone,” says Bernard.  “It has medium drainage and the soil is quite similar to Jeunes Rois, but the vines are older and the roots are deeper, so the wine has more complexity, density and good minerality… and the freshness.”

In 2009 Bernard started practicing organic management and remarks, “the wine has changed from 2009 progressively to today. It has better balance and more complexity and the touch in the mouth is different.”

“In 2009 I began using some whole bunches. I used 15% in 2010, and 40-50% from the 2014 vintage. I feel there is more complexity and structure and I am sure it is better for keeping the wine.”

 “In 2004 I began making wine with more of an infusion. I do not want too much extraction. The vintage gives me what it wants. Not too much cold maceration. Some pigeage and some remontage. It’s very traditional and natural. For me it is so important to pick the right day – 3 days before or after is no good. This is the most important thing for me in determining the style and for the balance and the aromatics. I use four coopers for the barrels. 30% new oak.”

“There is a saying,” says Bernard, “Gevrey est le nom, mais Brochon est la bonne.”

The wines were opened about 2.5 hours before we tasted. Tasted 2018. 

Tasting Notes 2017-2003

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2017

Quite a perfumed aroma. Nice and ripe. Very sweet blueberry fruits. It is succulent and juicy. Good quality, supple tannins. There is good structure and it is really fresh. The finish is persistent for a village wine. Quite powerful. It looks very promising and surprisingly maybe even a slight notch up from the 2016. Very early though. I will taste it again in October. Score 16.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2016

Lots of millerandage. The yield was very small 25-30hl. This is succulent and juicy on the strike. Mid palate is ripe with concentrated dark fruit, plums and spice notes…touch exotic…dried coriander. It is nicely rounded, soft and plump. Smooth tannins and quite ripe and spicy on the finish. Overall spicy, juicy and fresh. It is much more energetic than last October and I like the minerality that is now showing on the finish. Very pleasant. Score 16.

*Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps, 2015

This is a little closed on the nose and palate. But the tannins are lovely. It is tight. More refined tannins than in 2016 and 2017. A very good balance. This has depth and density with a long and persistent finish. It’s very good quality, akin to the 2005, but this has a riper fruit profile. Needs time. From 2022/23 and this should last well through the 2020s  Score 16.5

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2014

This is quite peppery. Herbal and green peppercorn. The flavour profile is fresh and somewhat herbaceous, but I like the acidity. It is quite crunchy and leafy. It will come forward much more quickly. Almost drinking now. Lighter profile. Drink now, but no hurry this will be happy for 8-10 years so until 2022-24. Score 15.5

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2013

This is just beginning to show some evolution on the nose. Green tomato and slight forest floor. The palate is very fruity. Blackcurrant, ripe blackcurrant. Nicely ripe tannins. It is fresh and juicy and energetic. This had a lot of malic like the 2008 and there is a similarity. Tartaric acidity is sweeter while this is more sappy. This is really quite herbal with a smooth texture. With this smooth texture you could begin to drink this now. Score 15.45 

*Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2012

This is perfumed on the nose. Wild strawberries. Slight smoke. It is succulent and deep and velvety. This is fresh, but the acidity sits in the wine, enveloped in the fruit. Dense, rich. This has a real depth of texture. It will age very well indeed… Needs 5 years and it will live for 15-20. From 2022. It is as good as the 2015.  Bernard feels it is better. Score 16.5

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2011

This is much more evolved on the nose than the 2012. It is elegant, pure and light. Racy and shows the minerality of the terroir.  A fresh and almost salty finish. Delicate, light, slim texture and drinking well. I would drink this now, but there is no hurry – it will plateau for a few years. Score 15.5

**Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2010

Here we have a little maturity on the nose..hints of forrest floor.  Sweet and plentiful fruit on the attack. This has lovely balance. Intense and elegant and lively. The minerality underscores the palate. There is tension and intensity on the finish. An excellent equilibrium. This will age elegantly and for a long time. Leave it another 3 or 4 years – it is too closed now. It may well have an ageing capacity in total of 20-25 years. From 2021. More vibrant than the 2015 and more elegant than the 2012. Score 16.55

*Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2009

This is rich and dense and full. A powerful and ripe wine. No movement here at all. So youthful. This has a muscular density. The tannins are rich and thick and it is glossy. Black fruit. Almost prunes. This wine needs time to slim down and refine. It is too overpowering at the moment. Leave for 3 or 4 years and will age over another 10 or more. Score 16.45. From 2022

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2008

This shows much more evolution on the nose. The freshness is more leafy. There is a crunch to it. I like the lively palate. The acidity and the fruit are running side by side, rather than together. Bernard links the 2013 with the 2008, because of the malic acidity. The 2008 is a better wine than the 2013 though. It has more depth and energy. I would drink this now, but there is no hurry – over the next 3 to 5 years it may continue to develop beneficially. Score 15.95

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2007

Bernard started the harvest 1st September and this was the right choice he thinks in Gevrey and Fixin. He stopped for 5 days to wait for Marsannay. “We had less good maturity in Marsannay. With the sun and a north wind, we waited 5 days and the maturity was high in Marsannay when we picked.”

The colour is paling at the edge – a water white rim – and brick colour. This is perfect now. It is sweet, soft, silky and fluid. A delicious focused sweetness. There is minerality on the finish. It is a touch austere at the end, which is good after the sweet fruit, but I would not keep this wine longer as it may well dry soon on the finish. Soft and sweeping. Score 15.65. It is a mature wine and I prefer it to the 2008. No benefit to wait. This is a lovely 2007 – for a lesser vintage, this is pretty impressive.  

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2006

This has mature notes on the nose, but is more youthful in colour and nose than the 2007. Ripe red bell pepper nose. Sweet red currents. This is much more awkward. It is a little abrupt on the finish, but also very ripe. It is full, yet lacks density. It is not as elegant. I would drink this now though. It would be a good wine for food. It is just a bit clunky and the finish is not long. Score 15.5

**Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2005

The nose is still closed on the 2005. This is coming around on the palate. The tannins are firm and fine. I really like the balance here and the freshness. The tannins are sophisticated, supportive and add a fresh bite. The finish is long and fresh and pure. Score 16.5 – my favourite with the 2010. Now this is very nice now, but I would decant it. It still needs time to evolve and then will have a long life. Drinking over the next 10 years. 

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2004

Bernard waited and waited and selected only the small bunches, removing the larger bunches. (This was in magnum) Here we have an asparagus aroma – ie an evolution of the greener characters. The flavour profile is somewhat removed from the typical pinot spectrum, but the texture is good. There is the smooth texture with a grassy bite. It is light and quite elegant. You can see the link between 2004, 2008 and 2013. I think this will be very nice now with food, vegetable dishes. He was very very careful – no pigeage. It shows. This is delicately done. Good job. Score 14. Drinking now, but with no signs of fading.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Racine du Temps 2003

(In magnum). This has a complex, mature bouquet. Mushrooms and ‘sweet’ horse-hoof aromas. Soft and smooth and so sweet. There is a full rich burst in the mid palate and then it drops off quite quickly, but an impressive mid palate. It is ripe, but properly pinot. The 2004 will stand you though a meal, while the 2003 may die in your glass, but it gives a lot in that big sunny burst up front. Well done indeed. Score 14.5